Poultry Spice is a Mineral supplement. This product is designed to keep birds healthy especially during times when chickens are ill or in their moult. I'm using this at the moment because of mites, my hens are a bit pale so I'm dosing them with porridge and spice. It is a powder so I find it simplest to add into the porridge so the chook's eat it all up. I've literally just fed them so I'm now hoping they will perk up a bit. The product has had good reviews and is made by "Battle" you can buy this online or at pets at home!Its quite large for the amount you feed them because I have 450g but you feed it by one teaspoonful per 10 birds. I also highly recommend ACV to boos the hens health.
I haven't had scaly leg mite on my chickens so far. It is a parasite that is contagious amongst chickens and it can be caught by wild birds. It is extremely painful! Signs of having scaly mite is the uplifting of the scales on the legs where they lay their eggs and burrow. To get rid of it you bath the chickens individually in soap water, spray their legs with "Just for scaly legs" spray by Nettex, then smother the chickens legs with Vasaline-this suffocates the mice and helps the scales heal. To prevent the parasite from coming back wash the coop/house and move it to a new area. For now I'm just using the spray to prevent the parasite! If you do get it here are some tips:
- do not lift up the scales, it will likely release more mites it to the environment
- visit the vets! there is a drop on prescribed treatment which works by entering the blood stream.
Flubenvet is a natural wormer for internal parasites in the chicken.Worms live in the intestines and respiratory airways of the chicken, it is more likely to get worms in a free range environment because the bare earth.Worms can be found in earth worms, insects and wild birds and can be carried easily by pets and equipment. I recommend Flubenvet for small numbers of domestic fowl. There is no withdrawal period for the eggs unlike most pesticides which means happy hens and happy keepers. Flubenvet say to prevent worms:
- Always feed from feeders rather on the direct on the ground
- If possible, move your poultry to clean grass on a regular basis
- Avoid muddy area, put down pea shingle in strategic areas to clean feet and allow droppings to dry
- Keep grass short to expose worm eggs to sunlight which destroys them
Worm every season with Flubenvets' worming products I believe you can get it from vets or agricultural shops without prescription but correct me if I'm wrong!
When I first started owning chickens I used the organic layers pellets. There is something called poultry mash, which seems to be a mix of food. However, according too experienced chicken keepers the birds can get a little fussy! Anyway for some reason the organic food got harder to find so I tried the DODSON & HORREL Layers Pellets, it states on the packaging:
- For healthy hens and delicious eggs
- Deep Golden yolks
- strong shells
- quality GM-free ingredients-(this is always very important)
I have used it for a long time, it seems to work well! Chickens are still fit and healthy and I often see them eating it. It is also approved by the vegetarian society and it seems to be about £3 cheaper than the organic equivalent.
On the other hand, if I had ex-bats I would buy the special formula ex-bats pellets as advertised on the Battery Hen Welfare site as they are specially fomulated to bring them back to health.
The layers pellets always give a typical amount of food to give to your chooks however, I don't want to starve them so I fill the whole feeder. Although my hens are greedy they are not obese because they are free range and they work off any extra energy.
At the farm where I volunteer (Deen City Farm) they add mixed corn with the pellets, but I rather think that corn should be a treat to be traditionally scattered across the floor and encourage their searching habits (it gives the girls exercise too!). I buy the DOBSON & HORRELL Mixed corn too. However, keep any food in a dry container like a bin so that damp and rats cant reach it.
The key thing to keep in mind when buying a feeder is to keep the food clean, dry and hygienic.
Water needs to be dirt free some can be suspended from the ground but normally a troph is the simplest option.
You can find poultry feeders from place like Pets at Home. Some are more expensive because they are galvanised or have a hook to hang up off the ground. But buy the one you believe is easiest for the birds to feed from which may depend on their height.
Tip: if you have a ground feeder lift it on to a couple of bricks so dirt is less likely to contaminate the water or food.
Dust baths are a natural defence for chickens against lice and mites. The chickens or you can prepare a small pit of fine earth or sand. You don't need to train them, in time they will spread dust over themselves with their wings and beaks to relax. Remember they can't dust bath in wet earth so put the dust bath under a sheltered place so it is always available. If you're planning to make a bath for them use something like the lid of a shoe box or a cat litter tray so you can move it from place to place. In addition if your chicken has mite or lice add diatom to their dust bath so the chicken can be protected.
Having a broody hen when unneeded first thing in the morning is exactly what you do not want. A broody hen is when she decides/thinks her eggs are going to hatch in the next 21 days. You diagnose this by looking at the hens tail if it is broody the tail will take a broadened triangular shape. Also the hen will refuse to move from her desired nesting box apart from once a day for some food and water. She will also stop laying temporarily. After a prolonged period she may become underweight, so if you do want a broody hen give her plenty of supplements like Aloe Vera to keep her in good condition. However, if you do not want or need a broody hen you have to go through a process of "breaking it" if you do want to keep her broody you will have to move her to a specialised broody coop to fulfil her needs.
First of all remove any eggs the hen is sat on. The first night I tried putting an ice pack underneath Rose (my broody hen) to discourage her, this can be challenge because they can become defensive wing slapping and all.Silkies are known to be the most defensive and hardest to break. Unfortunately, this didn't work. Next I simply locked her out the house in to the integral run all day and all night till all the symptoms were gone for me it was a couple of days. This can be unpleasant for the hen and owner but sometimes it just has to be done. The longer you leave a hen broody the longer she won't lay eggs.
We all know that chickens ruin their grassy areas by fouling, scratching and pecking. A lush green, spongy, grass patch can soon turn in to a winters bog. Sometimes this is just not allowable in especially urban gardens. So there is another option which is, placing your coop on wood chips, from my experience do this either on concrete/patio or dry earth because if the ground is wet the wood chips will sink and also become muddy. However, don't confuse wood chips with bark chips because these can harbor mold spores and parasites.
When putting wood chips in the chickens run make sure it is a couple or more inches high so the chickens can scratch around like they are in a natural grassy environment.
Never allow your chickens to live in a damp muddy home because this can cause serious respiratory problems which is unpleasant for the birds and expensive for you to sort out at the vets. It also means that parasites may be more easily caught.
Red Mites are small parasites who live outside the hen and live in the crevices of the chicken house. These mites thrive in warm temperatures which makes them a particularly tricky pest in the summer. If the situation is bad, your chickens may resign from sleeping in the coop at night. These mites leave a spotty gray deposit which tend to be found near the cracks around the coop, so regular inspection is needed. To prevent red mite use Diatom, it is a natural substance made from fossils and is otherwise known as Diatomaceous Earth, it works by dehydrating them. Just spread this lightly around the coop and even dust the hens under the feathers with it, this is more of an irritant to the pest and a preventative measure.
Adult red mites are 3-4mm and after feeding contain the blood of the animal turning red in colour thus called red mite. If you squeese a plump mite with your fingers you should see the blood released. Another way to diagnose if you have red mite is by using a microscope and comparing to some picture below. They are a type of ecto-parasite and its scientific name is Dermanyssus gallinae.
Personally I had huge problems with this mite, I used a Fortefog fumer, Diatom and eventually I spoke to a vet who prescribed me some strong horse lice killer made up off ammonia to use on the coop. So while the hens were out the coop I soaked it down wearing a mask as it is very toxic. Although this was effective, they kept coming back. I even changed the roof to a corrugated plastic cover. As I suffer from OCD these pests really drove me crazy! The only way I got rid of red mite completely was to buy an entire new plastic chicken coop by Omlet, an Eglu Go. Here there are no crevices for the mite to hide in and they can be hosed off, this was by far the most effective solution to the problem. Nonetheless an expensive fix. Therefore, the best you can do to stop these mites is do regular checks for signs,look underneath perches and in corners to catch and kill them as soon as possible.
Some facts about red mites:
- Can bite humans a rash may occur however cannot live of humans alone
- Cannot fly
- Can make the birds anaemic for a while
- Will reduce productions of eggs in chickens
- May cause pale wattles and combs on chickens
- Usually transferred by wild birds (so more common in free range)
- can cause death in young chicks
- Spots of blood on eggs
The Life Cycle of Red Mite
A blood feed takes 1 to 2 hours.
After feeding a female red mite crawls into a crack or crevice to mate and lay eggs.
During mild weather, eggs hatch and the larvae emerge in 2 or 3 days.
24 hours later, larvae change into 8 legged protonymphs.
The protonymphs change into deutonymphs 24 to 36 hours later.
They start to feed and become adult red mites. The females start to lay eggs again and the cycle is repeated.
The complete cycle takes about 7 days to complete.
Source of info, pictures and direct information (in italics):http://poultrykeeper.com/chickens/health/red-mite.html
Treatments:
Diatom
Poultry shield
To kill instantly:
Diluted solution of Deosect horse fly and lice (does need prescription from vet very strong stuff!)
Ardap spray
Hi,
I want to talk to you about chickens and battery cages. Battery cages are small wire cages normally found on a massive commercial scale. These are used so they can collect eggs and sell them for profit meanwhile the hens are kept in damp and squashed conditions when seen they are almost featherless. I find this very disturbing and many supermarkets like Marks & Spencer are making a difference by using free range eggs which result in better tasting eggs (yum!) and happier healthier chickens. To support and campaign for the welfare of chickens I recommend the Battery Hen Welfare Trust ( BHWT) who also re home battery chickens. You can also donate money and all goes to good cause. Thank You!
Link:http://www.bhwt.org.uk/
Always remember chickens will naturally roost on the highest perch bar, it's to do with the pecking order and domination. So if you do want to build a chicken coop, place perches at the same height. It is always better to have removable perches as mites can hide under the perch ready to attack at night especially red mites. In addition make perches wide preferably about 5cm so it's comfortable for the girls' feet.
Good Luck!!
"I WANT A CHICKEN!" was one of my more unusual needs. After begging and begging I finally made a deal with my parents to have chickens for my birthday. However, deciding on a coop to buy was a dilemma. THE PRICE! I could find nothing cheaper for £110 for a whole coop with run. For I while a planned to have an eglu,but at the time I didn't have the money.So a traditional wooden house was the only option. I knew what I wanted. I wanted a well ventilated house,removable perches, inside sliding door and a dropping tray. Eventually I found a coop on http://www.henhouseworld.co.uk/ for a sale price of £129. Problem sorted...for a day anyway!
